Chiapas is my favorite part of Mexico. Most of it is mountainous and cool, and a place where you can witness Mayan life, past and present — often in places that see few to no visitors. One such site is Chinkultic, about 25 miles southeast of Comitán (and reached by bus). There’s a winding battered road that makes the final couple miles to the site, backed by green mountains. Or you can take a ‘taxi.’ My taxi was a huge American pickup truck driven by an 11-year-old. Trying to impress, he took the curves fast and nearly collided with a bicyclist coming the other way. He waited for me as I explored the site — reaching the top and looking over mountains and forest. No one was in sight. Even the angry bike rider.